Training Leinenführigkeit

20.11.2015

Im letzten Blogpost ging es darum, das Prinzip der Leine zu verstehen und sie wenn möglich nicht unter Spannung zu halten. WIE genau man es aber schafft, dass der der Hund brav neben einem läuft und eben nicht zieht, das erfährst du jetzt hier 🙂 .

Im Prinzip konditionieren wir den Hund über eine positive Verstärkung (zum Beispiel ein Leckerlie) auf ein Wort, welches zukünftig benutzt wird, um den Hund anzuweisen, an unserer Seite zu laufen.

Wir brauchen also zwei Dinge:
1. Ein Signalwort: Wir haben uns im Training damals auf das Wort „Fuß“ geeinigt. Ich finde es passend, da es kurz und knapp ist und für den Menschen eine Bedeutung hat. Hier kann man gerne ein alltägliches Wort wählen, da es im Training häufig benutzt wird. Es sollte nur nicht zu lang sein, da dein Hund ja schnell darauf reagieren soll.
2. Eine Motivation: Für die meisten Hunde ist Futter als Motivation ausreichend. Mit dieser Motivation zu arbeiten ist auch die weitaus einfachste und effektivste Variante. Da es jedoch auch Rassen und Individuen gibt, die eher nicht auf Futter anspringen, kann man auch auf Spielzeug zurückgreifen. Es ist nur wichtig, dass man etwas findet, was für den Hund wirklich interessant ist und ihn motiviert.

Trainingsvoraussetzungen:
Zu Beginn des Trainings sollte in sehr reizarmer und einer für den Hund nicht unbekannten Umgebung trainiert werden, beispielsweise im Garten. Erst wenn dein Hund die Übungen relativ zuverlässig beherrscht, kann die Ablenkung im Umfeld nach und nach erhöht werden.
Achtung: Hunde lernen ortsgebunden! Das bedeutet, dass sie das Erlernte mit dem Ort verknüpfen, an dem es erlernt wurde. Es kann also sein, dass die Übungen auch bei gleichem Schwierigkeitsgrad an einem anderen Ort nicht so zuverlässig abgerufen werden können. Hier einfach geduldig weiter üben und den Schwierigkeitslevel erst erhöhen, wenn der Hund in dieser neuen Umgebung den letzten Level zuverlässig halten kann.

Übungsaufbau:
Die Übung wird folgendermaßen aufgebaut:
1. Rufe deinen Hund auf Kniehöhe neben dir ins Sitz. Überlege dir vorher, ob du deinen Hund an deiner linken oder rechten Seite führen möchtest (üblichweise wird der Hund an der linken Seite geführt).
2. Hast du dich für die linke Seite entschieden, hältst du in der rechten Hand Leckerlies bereit, die du dir mit der linken Hand dann zügig nehmen und dem Hund während der Übung geben kannst.
3. Jetzt passiert viel auf einmal: Du gehst los, währenddessen gibst du dein Signalwort, „Fuß“, dann gibst du sofort das Leckerli. Dein Hund wird dir wegen des Leckerlies natürlich folgen. Das Ganze ist etwas tricky, denn du musst gleichzeitig die Leine halten, das Leckerli aus der einen Hand in die andere geben und dann an den Hund weiter reichen und musst gleichzeitig darauf achten, dass dein Hund auch genau neben dir läuft. Denn das Wort soll ja mit der richtigen Handlung des Hundes verknüpft werden.

Wenn es dir hilft, übe diese Abfolge zuerst ohne Hund. Ich weiß noch, wie überfordert ich damals mit der Situation war 😀 Mir ist die Leine aus der Hand gefallen, als ich mir Leckerlies aus der anderen nehmen wollte, dann sind mir alle Leckerlies auf den Boden gefallen. Somit war Nalas Konzentration dann komplett zerstört, denn sie war anschließend damit beschäftigt, alle Leckerlies vom Boden aufzusammeln. Aber das schlimmste war, dass sie sich durch die Aufregung nicht mehr darauf konzentrieren konnte das Futter vorsichtig aus meiner Hand zu nehmen. Nach der ersten Trainingsstunde war meine Hand blutig und geschwollen und ich habe mich gefragt, wie wir das jemals schaffen sollen! Als wir das erste Mal zuhause geübt haben, lief es auch nicht besser. Irgendwann habe ich mir zum Üben dann Handschuhe angezogen, damit die Schmerzen etwas erträglicher waren 😉 Übrigens läuft Nala heute am zuverlässigsten an der Stelle bei Fuß, an der ich damals beim ersten Mal üben total verzweifelt bin und die größten Schmerzen erlitten habe 😉 .

So, kleiner Exkurs in unsere ersten Trainingserfahrungen 😉 . Was ich eigentlich damit sagen will: es ist ganz normal, wenn du mehrere Anläufe brauchst, bis diese Übung vernünftig funktioniert. Das war bei uns so, genau wie bei allen anderen Kursteilnehmern. Bei dieser Übung ist Wiederholung einfach super wichtig und das A und O. Drei Monate lang haben wir JEDEN einzelnen Tag trainiert: „Fuß“ –> Leckerlie, „Fuß“ –> Leckerlie, „Fuß“ –> Leckerlie und so weiter und so weiter. Es kam uns zu den Ohren wieder raus! ABER: es hat sich wirklich, wirklich gelohnt und klappt bis heute noch super zuverlässig. Also: üben, üben, üben 🙂 .

Eine kleine Anmerkung noch zur Motivation: sollte dein Hund auf Spielzeug besser reagieren als auf Futter, baust du die Übung in abgewandelter Form auf: du rufst deinen Hund zu dir ins Sitz, zeigst ihm das Spielzeug, gehst mit dem Signalwort los: „Fuß“. Kurz darauf kommt direkt das Spielzeug zum Einsatz, zum Beispiel ein Ball, der dann geworfen wird. Im Gegensatz zum Futter würde ich die Zeitspanne zwischen dem Signalwort und der Belohnung einen kleinen Ticken länger halten. Beim Spielzeug besteht die Gefahr, dass der Hund zu sehr drauf fixiert ist und das Signalwort womöglich gar nicht mehr wahrnimmt. Außerdem wird er jedes Mal komplett aus der Situation herausgerissen, wenn das Spielzeug zum Einsatz kommt, also beispielsweise der Ball geworfen wird. Hier sollte dann schnell eine Steigerung in Bezug auf die Dauer bis zur Belohnung eingebaut werden. Der Ball wird zum Beispiel erst nach drei mal „Fuß“ geworfen.

Sollte auch das Spielzeug nicht ausreichend Motivation bieten, besteht noch die Möglichkeit, den Hund mindestens 24 Stunden vor dem ersten Training nicht mehr zu füttern, sodass er beim Training dann richtig Hunger hat. Dann sind auch nicht verfressene Hunde bereit, für ihr Futter zu arbeiten. Wenn es nicht unbedingt sein muss, möchte ich aber von dieser Möglichkeit abraten. Ein Hund kommt problemlos einen ganzen Tag und auch länger ohne Futter aus. Ich bin aber der Meinung, dass kein Hund fürs Training hungern sollte. In Ausnahmefällen kann es aber dennoch sinnvoll sein.

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  110. Anonymous sagt:

    Tatsächlich ist sie ein Blitzmerker und bietet es quasi vom dritten Tag von sich aus an, sobald sie „alles“ erschnüffelt hat und der Meinung ist, dass die Leckerlis nun spannender sind 😀
    Aber ich merke auch, dass Lola nun in vielen anderen Situationen sehr viel ruhiger geworden ist und sich besser kontrollieren lässt (wir haben da in gewissen Situationen echte Baustellen).

    Danke nochmal und liebe Grüße,

    Lydia und Lola

  111. Anonymous sagt:

    Vielen Dank für diesen Beitrag. Mir hat das echt sehr geholfen und meiner Lola auch! Ich hatte es vorher anders umgesetzt, aber das war gar nicht zielführend. Diese Übung versteht Lola wirklich sehr gut und es wird von Tag zu Tag besser, auch wenn da noch viele Übungsstunden vor uns liegen 🙂

    • Kiki sagt:

      Das freut mich sehr, dass euch die Tipps geholfen haben! Lasst euch genug Zeit beim Üben 🙂 Nach einigen Wochen wird Lola diese Übung verinnerlicht haben und das „bei-Fuß-Laufen“ dann auch öfters von sich aus anbieten.
      Ich wünsche euch noch weiterhin viel Spaß beim Üben 🙂
      Liebe Grüße,
      Kiki

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